The Garden Checklist for August
Here are our suggestions for the last full month of summer.
•Enjoy fresh fruits and vegetables from Ohio farms.
•Fertilize your roses the first week of the month. Don't fertilize them again this year.
•Attend the Cuyahoga County Fair.
•Be alert for wasp nests when mowing and gardening.
•Deadhead annuals to keep them blooming.
•Control weeds before they flower and produce seeds.
•Gather herb leaves before their flowers bloom.
•Divide overcrowded spring-flowering perennials.
•Make plans for your fall planting of trees, shrubs and perennials.
•Apply one inch of water to your lawn and gardens weekly during dry periods.
•Check with Extension for the latest recommendations on food preservation.
•Collards, kale, leaf lettuce, mustard, spinach, radishes, turnips and bok choy are good crops for the fall garden.
•Early September is an ideal time for sowing grass seed or establishing a new lawn. Prepare now to renovate that tired lawn.
•Sow seeds of California poppy, columbine, delphinium, and gloriosa and Shasta daisy.
•Watch for garden supply sales.
•Take cuttings of begonias, coleus and impatiens for winter houseplants.
•Remove melon blossoms at the end of the month that won't have time to set fruit. Ripening melons will then be larger.
•Donate vegetables to a hunger center.
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Trees and Shrubs for Wet Soils
Most trees and shrubs do not tolerate wet soil. Fortunately, there are some that tolerate wet soils better than others. The following trees and shrubs are some good choices for wet sites.
■River birch tolerates heat and drought better than the white-barked birches. It is also resistant to the bronze birch borer. It is typically found in moist to wet areas along rivers, hence the common name river birch. The exfoliating bark varies from gray-brown to reddish brown. The cultivar 'Heritage' has a salmon-white bark. River birches are often planted as multi-stemmed specimens or "clumps." It grows 50 to 60 feet tall. River birches perform best in acid soils. Their foliage often turns a sickly yellow-green in alkaline soils.
■The American hornbeam is noted for its hard, tough wood and is also referred to as ironwood, musclewood, and blue beech. The small, shrubby tree grows slowly to a height of 20 to 30 feet. It does well in heavy shade and wet soils, but will tolerate sunnier and drier sites. In the fall, the foliage turns yellow to orange red.
■Bald cypress is a deciduous conifer. Native to swamps in the southeastern United States, it does surprisingly well in the north. The foliage is an attractive yellow-green in the spring and turns to russet in the fall. The bald cypress possesses a pyramidal growth habit and may eventually reach a height of 50 feet. Other trees that do well in wet soils include cottonwood and willows.
■Summersweet clethra is native to wet areas and will grow in full sun or heavy shade. It produces small, white, fragrant flowers that are attractive to bees and butterflies. The foliage is a lustrous, dark green. Summersweet clethra can grow to 3 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide.
■Winterberry is a deciduous holly. The deep green leaves drop off in the fall revealing bright red fruit. The shrub attains a height of 6 to 10 feet. Male and female flowers are produced on separate plants. Winterberries require acid soils.
When selecting trees and shrubs for the home landscape, gardeners should select plants suitable for the site. Wet sites can be a challenge. However, these trees and shrubs will perform well in wet soils.
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Black Rot of Cabbage
Black rot is a bacterial disease that affects vegetables in the cabbage family. The disease is particularly damaging to cabbage and cauliflower, but turnip, rutabaga, collard, kohlrabi, and Chinese cabbage are also susceptible. Broccoli is somewhat more resistant, and radish is usually highly resistant.
The first symptoms are usually yellow V-shaped lesions at the leaf margins. As the diseased area of the leaf expands and turns brown, the leaf veins in the affected area may appear black. Eventually, the leaf collapses. The pathogen may enter the stem and spread to all parts of the plant through the vascular system. Infected stems show a ring of black discoloration when cut near the soil surface. Black rot infection and spread is favored by wet conditions and temperatures in the range of 80-86 F. Crowded plants provide conditions that are ideal for bacterial spread to nearby plants.
To control black rot in the home garden:
•Remove infected plants.
•Remove any plant debris. (The bacteria can persist and overwinter in diseased plant parts.)
•Fall tillage will help reduce the overwintering pathogen population.
•Plant cabbage family crops where air and soil drainage is good.
•Avoid overhead irrigation if possible or water early in the day.
•Use a 4-year crop rotation that excludes all cabbage family crops.
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Transplanting Peonies
The peony has been a popular perennial in American gardens since the 1800's. The peony is hardy, dependable, long-lived, and easy to grow. Gardeners value the peony for its large, colorful flowers in spring and attractive, season-long foliage.
Peonies can be left undisturbed in the garden for many years. Occasionally, however, it becomes necessary to move established plants. Peonies shaded by large trees or shrubs bloom poorly and should be moved to a sunny site. Large, old plants may become overcrowded and flower poorly. Large, poorly blooming peonies should be dug, divided, and transplanted to improve performance.
Moving established plants is a simple procedure. Cut the peony stems near ground level in September. Then carefully dig around and under each plant. Try to retain as much of the root system as possible. Promptly replant the peony in a sunny, well-drained site.
Division of large peony clumps requires a few additional steps. After digging up the plant, gently shake the clump to remove loose soil from the root system. Using a sharp knife, divide the clump into sections. Each section should have at least 3 to 5 buds (eyes) and a good portion of the root system.
Peonies perform best in full sun and well-drained soils. When selecting a planting site, choose an area that receives full sun. Avoid shady areas near large trees and shrubs. Poorly drained soils can often be improved by working in large amounts of compost or peat.
When planting peonies, dig a hole large enough for the entire root system. Place the peony plant in the hole so the buds are 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Fill the hole with soil, firming the soil around the plant as you backfill. Then water thoroughly.
In late November, apply a 2 to 4 inch layer of mulch over the newly planted peonies. Straw is an excellent mulch. Mulching will prevent repeated freezing and thawing of the soil during the winter months that could damage the plants. Remove the mulch in early spring before growth begins.
Transplanted peonies will not bloom well the first spring. In fact, it's advisable to remove any flower buds that form the first year to maximize plant growth. Transplanted peonies should bloom well by the third or fourth year.
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Household Invaders
It is once again the time when insects inadvertently enter homes and buildings. Common accidental invaders include boxelder bugs , multicolored Asian lady beetles , spiders , and elm leaf beetles .
Accidental invaders are generally harmless to people and property. They do not feed on people, pets, houseplants, stored products, or furnishings. They cannot sting and they do not carry disease. Accidental invaders cannot reproduce indoors. They are nuisances just by their presence, especially when they occur in large numbers.
The preferred management for accidental invaders is prevention; stop them before they enter the house. Typical exclusion or pest-proofing activities include use of tight-fitting doors and windows; sealing openings and cracks around pipes and wires, windows, doors, chimneys, and foundations; repairing or replacing window, door and vent screens; and keeping siding, eaves, and soffits in good repair.
Residual insecticide barriers around the home can supplement pest-proofing and may be applied by a professional pest control firm or by the homeowner. Always apply insecticides according to label directions. Be sure to correctly identify to invader before puchasing the pesticide.
Remove insects that have already entered the home with a dustpan or vacuum.
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Fall Planting
We've all seen newspaper advertisements and information displayed at local nurseries and garden centers proclaiming "Fall is for Planting." But is it really wise to plant trees and shrubs at the end of a growing season and so close to winter? The answer to this question is a qualified yes. Fall planting can be successful as long as the planting season is not extended too late into the fall, if difficult-to-establish species are avoided, and if proper care (watering, mulching, and staking) is administered after planting.
For good reason, most people think of spring as the preferred planting season. Landscape plants installed in March, April, and May benefit from generous rains and the long growing season that stretches ahead. But more often than not, we receive too much precipitation that makes planting difficult, especially on poorly drained sites. Furthermore, the sudden onset of hot, dry weather that typically displaces an often too-short spring, can injure tender new plantings. Because of these difficulties, increasing attention has been given to fall planting. During the period from mid-August to mid-October, moderate and relatively stable air temperatures prevail, and soil temperatures and moisture levels are usually in a range that promote rapid root development.
Most container-grown and balled and burlapped deciduous trees and shrubs sold at garden centers are excellent candidates for fall planting. Because these plants usually possess well-developed root systems, and because the roots of many landscape plants are capable of growing even when soil temperatures cool to 45 F, the prospects for successful plant establishment are quite high throughout the fall season. Conifers, such as pine and spruce, benefit from a slightly earlier start, preferring the warmer soil temperatures (60 to 70 F) common in late summer to early fall (mid-August through September).
If plants from a nursery can be planted in the fall, what about moving or transplanting established trees and shrubs from one locale to another? Severing the roots of a plant (up to 95 percent in some cases), hauling it out of the ground, and moving it to a completely new site is a stressful operation regardless of the season. Still, transplanting can be successfully carried out if it is restricted to those plants with a proven track record of surviving such a move in the fall.
Notable tree species that can be successfully planted in the fall include maple, buckeye or horsechestnut, alder, catalpa, hackberry, hawthorn, ash, honeylocust, Kentucky coffeetree, crabapple, Amur corktree, spruce, pine, sycamore, linden, and elm. Most deciduous shrubs are easily planted in fall; however, broad-leaved evergreens like rhododendron and narrow-leaved evergreens like yew prefer to be planted in the spring.
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Chicory
Chicory is one of the only blue-flowered weeds of summer. A single plant consists of several branched hollow stems, each ending in a single bloom approximately 1-1.5 inches across. The tip of every petal has five lobes. Plant size ranges from 1-3 ft. high but could reach up to 5 ft. Chicory can be expected to bloom from June through October.
Chicory's sky blue flowers add just the right touch to not only country roads, but city streets and vacant lots as well, proving that it can endure almost any environmental stress. Its only real enemy is routine cultivation making it a weed even the farmers can enjoy. In addition to roadsides, chicory is often found in waste grounds, pastures and meadows where each plant is free to spread its seed and return each year with minimal disruption. Europeans have found that chicory makes a good hay crop. It is also grown for a substance it possesses called pyrone which is used in bread and pastries to bring out the flavor of sugar. It's called coffeeweed because its roots can be dried, roasted and used as a substitute for coffee.
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Outdoor Furniture
Your outdoor furniture needs regular maintenance to look its best. Frequent washing is one of the best ways to preserve outdoor furniture. When dirt and residues are allowed to set, metals corrode and become pitted, while plastics and fabrics lose their color.
Aluminum furniture resists rust but has to be safeguarded against any type of pitting that gives the metal a dull patina. Frequent washings help prevent this condition if the metal is in good shape or has an enameled or baked-on finish. If the metal is already in poor condition, rub each piece briskly with a steel wood pad. If this is unsuccessful, try a No. 00 steel wool pad soaked in paint thinner. Once the metal is smooth again, wash it in a mild detergent and water solution. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Protect the rejuvenated finish with a light application of automobile wax, then buff to remove any excess.
Redwood furniture is attractive and weather resistant in that it is not likely to rot or warp. It can split, however, and will almost surely turn grey within a year if not cared for properly. Commercial brands of redwood stain and sealer are available to help prevent discoloration. Before applying the sealer, wash the furniture and replace any fasteners that are starting to rust, as they will eventually stain the wood. Lightly sand all exposed parts with No.150 or 180 grit sandpaper. Dust and finally wipe with a rag that has been moistened in paint thinner. The final step is to apply one or two coats of water repellent sealer specially made for redwood.
Wicker furniture is weather-resistant, but it can dry out in the sun. Wicker is best kept in the shade. Once a year, soak it in water to put moisture back into its fibers. Undamaged wicker simply has to be washed and refinished periodically to keep it in good condition. Vacuum the furniture first, then wipe it down with a rag soaked in a mild detergent and warm water solution. If mildew is a problem, wash the furniture with a solution of 3/4 cup chlorine bleach and one quart of water. Since the bleach may lighten the wicker, apply it to the entire piece of furniture. Wear gloves when working with bleach and protect your clothing from splashes and spills. Wicker furniture with a natural finish that has dulled can be restored by applying lemon oil furniture polish.
Wrought iron can look good for many years if it is touched up whenever bare metal is exposed. Use a rust-resistant metal primer on these spots to prevent rust from spreading under the paint.
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Preserving Flowers
Flowers can be preserved by several methods. Some flowers can be dried by simply hanging the stems, upside-down, in a dark, well ventilated area. Flowers that can be air-dried include statice, baby's breath, and globe amaranth, and strawflower. Many flowers, however, require a drying agent to remove the moisture and preserve the color.
A popular, inexpensive drying mixture consists of equal parts borax and white cornmeal. The borax-cornmeal mix and flowers can be placed in a shoe box or plastic storage box. During the drying process, the containers should be left uncovered because air is necessary for the drying process. Flowers dried in a borax-cornmeal mix will dry in approximately 2 to 3 weeks.
Commercial drying agent products are available in hobby and craft stores. These products contain silica gel. Silica gel is lightweight and fast drying. Though expensive, it can be used indefinitely. Flowers being dried in silica gel must be placed in air-tight containers. Flowers placed in silica gel should be dry in 3 to 8 days. The exact time varies with the thickness of the flower. Silica gel must be dried before it can be reused. Place the silica gel in a shallow baking pan and place in a warm oven at 250 to 300 degrees for approximately one hour. Stir the crystals several times while drying. Keep unused silica gel in air-tight containers.
Harvest flowers for drying when they are at their peak of beauty. Pick when there is no water or dew on the blossoms. The stems of most flowers should be removed prior to drying. Since the drying time varies considerably, it is advisable to put only one flower species in a drying box at a time.
After all the flowers have been completely covered, lift the container and tap it gently on the base to help settle the material, then recover exposed flowers. Remember, do not cover the boxes containing the borax-cornmeal agent. However, put an air-tight lid over those dried in silica gel. Place all containers in a warm place. Write the flower species and the drying commencement date on a label or piece of masking tape and place on the container.
Check the flowers occasionally during the drying process. Carefully remove and check the condition of one or two flowers. Drying is complete when the flowers are dry but not brittle.
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Controlling Weeds
Regardless of the growing conditions - too dry, too wet, too hot, too cold - weeds in the garden seem to flourish. When the growth of our crops and flowers slow down due to stressful growing conditions, the weeds take over. There are several reason why we need to keep weeds under control in our flower and vegetable gardens. Weeds are strong competitors with garden crops for available water, nutrients, and sunlight. As the weeds grow tall, they shade the flowers and vegetables, resulting in spindly, unproductive plants. Reduced air circulation created by tall weeds encourages the development and spread of foliage diseases, such as early blight and septoria leaf spot on tomatoes. Also, a weedy garden often has more insect problems.
The best time to control weeds is while they are small. This requires repeated cultivation through the growing season as weed seeds continue to germinate during the spring and summer months. The young seedlings are more vulnerable and easy to uproot with a hoe or cultivator. The larger the weeds become, the more difficult they are to remove with a hoe and will require pulling by hand. Some weeds, such as crabgrass, become very difficult to remove from the garden after they have become established. Crabgrass forms roots at nodes along the shoots, giving them a firm hold in the soil which make them very difficult to hoe or pull out. Use care when pulling large weeds that are growing close to desirable plants because the roots of the weed and the other plant may be intertwined. You may uproot both plants by accident.
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Dividing Perennials
Fall is an excellent time of year to move and divide many spring and summer blooming perennials. Fall is not a good time to move fall blooming perennials. A good rule of thumb is to divide perennials opposite their season of bloom. By dividing the plant when it is not flowering, all the energy it produces can be directed to root and foliage growth.
Fall division should take place from early September to mid-October. Allow at least 4 to 6 weeks before the ground freezes for the plants to become established. Fall divided perennials should be mulched with straw the first winter to prevent heaving caused by alternating freezing and thawing of the soil. The best winter mulch is straw, though bagged leaves are also acceptable. Mulch should be applied when night-time temperatures are consistently in the 20's. A mulch layer 4 or 5 inches thick is adequate.
Perennials that can be successfully transplanted and divided in the fall include: yarrow, bugle weed, snow-in-summer, bleeding heart, daylily, Hosta, sundrops, peony, oriental poppy, garden phlox, Jacobs-ladder, coneflower, false Solomon's seal, columbine meadow rue, and speedwell.
Fall is an excellent time to continue some of the unfinished spring projects in the flower garden. Transplanting many perennials can be just as successful at this time of year as in the spring.
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Poison Ivy Myths
Anyone who has had a case of poison ivy has developed a fear of the plant. And a fear is probably justified; there are few conditions that cause more torment. But fear and misunderstanding often goes hand in hand. Much folklore has developed over the years concerning poison ivy. Do you know what's really true anymore about the plant? Test yourself as I read these statements:
1. If you're allergic to poison ivy, you always will be. If not, you're safe. This is false. People who have never been sensitive to poison ivy may suddenly develop an allergy on any give exposure. Those who have had severe reactions in the past may begin to develop a tolerance.
2. Just touching a leaf is enough to provoke a rash. This is false. The itch-provoking oil flows in the veins inside leaves, stems, and roots, so the plant must be damaged to allow the sap to leak out. Merely touching an intact leaf will not cause a rash even on the most sensitive skin. Don't be too brazen, however. A strong wind or insect damage can release the sap onto the leaf surface.
3. You can't get poison ivy in the winter. This is false. The sap is potent year round. Even a bare, leafless stem is filled with it.
4. Ooze from the blisters spreads the rash. This is another falsehood and perhaps the most common myth. The fluid that oozes from blisters doesn't contain poison ivy sap and therefore can't spread the rash. The fluid from blisters is composed of blood serum and dead cells.
5. Eating the leaves can make you immune. False! In 1609, in the first written record of poison ivy, Captain John Smith reported seeing Indians eating poison ivy leaves to protect themselves from the rash. Don't try this or you may find yourself breaking out at both ends! The irritating chemical in poison ivy can be administered orally to desensitize people, but the doses must be carefully controlled. And, even then, the itch side effects can be worse than the rash.
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Yellowjacket Wasps
Yellowjacket wasps often become a nuisance in Ohio, especially from August through October, as they build up in large populations and scavenge for human food such as carbonated beverages, ripe fruits and vegetables, candy, ice cream, hamburgers, hot dogs, and just about everything else that people enjoy outdoors. Many are attracted in large numbers to garbage cans and other trash receptacles. Others fly in and out of nests built around homes, buildings and areas where people live, work and play, causing fear and alarm. Although yellowjackets are considered quite beneficial to agriculture since they feed abundantly on harmful flies and caterpillars, it is their boldness (sometimes aggressiveness) and painful stinging ability that cause most concern. Nevertheless, unless the threat of stings and nest location present a hazard, sometimes it is often best to wait for Mother Nature, with freezing temperatures in late November and December, to kill off these annual colonies. Stinging workers do not survive the winter and the same nest is not reused.
According to Dr. Michael F. Potter, Extension Entomologist at the University of Kentucky, the best way to reduce the threat of foraging yellowjackets is to minimize attractive food sources. People eating outdoors should keep food and beverages covered until ready to be eaten. Spills and leftovers should be cleaned up promptly. Trash cans should be equipped with tight-fitting (preferably self-closing) lids. Maintaining high levels of sanitation throughout the summer will make areas less attractive to yellowjackets later in the fall.
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Fertilizing Roses
Roses need to fertilized three times during the growing season. The first application should be in early spring immediately after pruning. The second application should be made during the first bloom period. And, the third one made in mid to late July. Do not fertilize after the first week of August as this will promote tender growth susceptible to winter injury. Spread 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 at 2 pounds per 100 foot of row or 100 square feet. Water the roses after application.
Remove faded flowers to conserve the plant's energy and encourage more blossoms. For plants in their first growing season, remove the flower above the uppermost 3-leaflet leaf. For established roses, cut the stem back to a 5-leaflet leaf. Leave at least two 5-leaflet leaves on each shoot. Cut about 1/4 inch above an outward facing leaflet with the cut made parallel to the leaflet.
Roses require watering during hot, dry weather. The actual amount and frequency depends upon our weather conditions and the soil type. In most situations, a deep soaking every week to 10 days should be sufficient. Soak the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Overhead watering should be avoided as this promotes disease problems including black spot. If overhead watering is unavoidable, the best time to water is during the morning.
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Powdery Mildew of Vine Crops
Powdery mildew can be a serious problem on foliage and stems of cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins, and ornamental gourds. The symptoms appear as small patches of fine, white threads that develop on surfaces of infected leaf blades in late July on most vine crops in Ohio. These patches grow together and eventually cover stems and foliage with white, powdery masses of spores. In severe infections, leaves will yellow and die. Petioles, stems, and rarely, fruit will also become infected. Early death of leaves can decrease the total amount of fruits formed as well as reduce fruit size. Loss of foliage hastens maturity of fruit and increases sunburning. This can spoil the appearance of the "handles" on pumpkins which lowers value of the fruit.
Planting resistant cultivars of cucumber and muskmelons is one method of control. Another method of control is using cultural practices that avoid excessive succulence, overcrowding, shading, overwatering, or excess fertilization especially with nitrogen. For more specific details see the new OSU Extension Factsheet HYG-3111-96 Powdery Mildew of Vine Crops.
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Fall Vegetable Garden
Do wilting cucumbers and riddled bean leaves have you feeling like it's time to turn the garden under and start up again next year? If so, you're going to miss out on one of the most satisfying times of the year to work in the garden the fall. September and October bring cooler temp-eratures and lower humidity that can revive and invigorate even the most droopy gardener. And, the fall season will be most rewarding if you're harvesting crops of greens and beans, rather than just putting dead plants into your compost pile.
August is planting time for the fall garden! Those dead cucumber and zucchini crops can be planted from seed the first week of the month. And while you're out in the garden, plant another row or two of snap beans, carrots and peas. I know we're pushing the warm-season crops a little, but a killing frost hits our area the third week of October on average. This gives plenty of time for the squashes and cukes to form. And, with a little protection from the cold, who knows how long the frost-hardy crops might last into November?
Carrots that mature in the fall develop a sweeter taste than those harvested in the summer. And, if you mulch them after the ground freezes, they can be harvested throughout the winter. They will be sweetest of all next spring before they begin to grow again.
Other crops that can be planted from seeds before mid-August are beets, leaf lettuce, turnips, bok choy, Chinese cabbage, mustards, and oriental or daikon radishes. Radishes and spinach can be planted in early September. Finally, as you're planting your spring flowering bulbs in early October, remember to set out some garlic cloves, shallots and walking onions.
After planting your seeds, you'll need to be careful to keep the soil moist until the seeds sprout. Hot August days dry the soil quickly and will kill your tender sprouts unless you give them a drink every day or two until they get established. Experienced gardeners cover the seed beds with boards, burlap bags, row cover fabric or corn stalks to keep the soil surface moist. The seedbed is checked daily and these are removed (the row cover fabric can be left in place) as soon as the seedlings emerge through the soil.
Continue to keep a watchful eye on insect pests. Seedbeds covered with row cover fabric will eliminate the threat of aphids, cucumber beetles and Mexican bean beetles until the plants are beginning to produce.
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Bethlehem Sage
Bethlehem Sage is a clump forming perennial that can spread to 24 inches and is a good choice for full to partial shady areas of the garden. It prefers cool, moist soil of average fertility. Massed plants create a ground cover effect.
The funnel-shaped flowers are borne in terminal, branched cymes on 12-18 inch stems. The dark, green basal leaves are conspicuously flecked with white spots, making this plant quite attractive even after the spring flowering period ends.
Mrs. Moon, the industry standard, has pink flowers that turn blue as the flowers mature. The foliage has silver-white spots. Janet Fisk has a great amount of marbling on the foliage that tends to coalesce, creating a whitish leaf. This selection can really lighten a dark area of the garden. Two recent introductions, British Sterling and Excalibur have silvery leaves with green margins.
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Summer Care of Trees and Shrubs
Late summer is a time of minimal maintenance for trees and shrubs. First, do not fertilize the ornamental trees and shrubs that you didn't fertilize in the spring. Wait until fall. Fertilizing woody plants now will stimulate late growth which will be soft and easily killed by the first frost. In addition to producing soft growth, fertilizing now can stimulate the plants into growth in an Indian summer, if we have one, this fall. If this happens, you can almost be guaranteed that the new growth will not be able to survive the winter.
Therefore, if you neglected to fertilize your trees and shrubs, continue to neglect them until fall.
Secondly, do not prune your trees and shrubs now. Unless they are dead, branches should not be removed at this time of year. Pruning tends to stimulate new branches to grow. Because of their late start, these new branches will not be able to acclimate themselves to the first frost and subsequent cold weather. The result will be the death of these new branches and possibly damage to the entire tree or shrub.
Continue to water your trees and shrubs deeply once per week during dry periods. Freshen the mulch around the trunks and add some new mulch, if necessary.
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Renovating a Lawn
The best time to seed lawns in our area is early to mid-September. If this task is part of your landscape plan this year, here are the recommended steps.
1: conduct a soil test to determine the amount and types of fertilizer and lime needed to provide nutrients necessary for a healthy lawn.
For soil testing,we recommend the University of Massachusetts Soil Lab. The report will tell you how much lime, if any, and fertilizer is needed to provide the right amount of nutrients.
2: Remove the existing turf. An herbicide with the active ingredient glyphosate, such as Roundup, will kill your lawn in about two weeks. This could be done in the middle of August. Apply herbicides according to label directions.
3: After the lawn is dead and approximately a week prior to sowing seeds, rototill the soil to a depth of at least 6 to 8 inches. Break up all large clumps of soil. Remove rocks, broken roots and other debris.
4: Add additional topsoil and roll it to establish the desired grade. Water the lawn with a sprinkler to determine any low spots that need additional soil.
5: Just prior to sowing the seeds, apply the fertilizer and lime recommended by the soil test and rototill it into the soil.
9: Rake the soil smooth and broadcast the new seed. Select high quality grass seed. In sunny areas, Kentucky bluegrass is the best choice.Apply the seed with a drop-type seeder or by hand. The goal is uniform distribution over the area. Sow half the seed in one direction; the remaining half should be applied at a right angle to the first application.
7: After sowing the seed, lightly rake the area covering the seed to a depth of 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Mulching with straw is not necessary at this time of year.
8: Water the area with a sprinkler and soak it thoroughly. Then, lightly water the area every day or two until all the grass seeds have germinated. This may take two to three weeks for a mixture containing Kentucky bluegrass. Apply at least one inch of water per week during dry periods.
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Harvesting Corn
Harvesting sweet corn at the right stage of maturity is essential to ensure high quality produce.
Sweet corn should be harvested at the milk stage. At this stage the silks are brown and dry at the ear tip. When punctured with a thumbnail, the soft tender kernels produce a milky juice. Sweet corn that is past its prime is tough and doughy. An immature ear will not be completely filled to the tip and the kernels will produce a clear, watery liquid when punctured.
The harvest date can be estimated by noting the date of the silk emergence. The number of days from silk emergence to harvest is approximately 18 to 23 days. Prime maturity, however, may be reached in 15 days or less if day and night temperatures are exceptionally warm. Most hybrid sweet corn varieties produce two ears per plant. The upper ear usually matures one or two days before the lower ear.
Sweet corn remains in the milk stage for a short time; the weather determines the length of this stage. Sweet corn will remain in prime condition for only one or two days during hot weather of 85 degrees and above. Check the sweet corn frequently during typical summer weather to ensure high quality sweet corn.
Harvest sweet corn by grasping the ear at its base and then twisting downward. Use sweet corn immediately as its quality rapidly declines after harvest. Sweet corn may be refrigerated for a short period (4 - 8 days) at 32 degrees. High sugar varieties are slower to convert sugar to starch and may be harvested over a longer period of time. The high sugar types also have a longer storage life.
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Storing Vegetable Seeds
Gardeners usually have surplus seeds at the end of the growing season. These can be saved quite easily for next year or even for many years to come. The two enemies of seeds are heat and humidity. High humidity is probably the worse because bacteria and fungi can attack seeds or the packets in areas where humidity is high for long periods of time. Ideally, the storage location of your seeds should be an area where the heat and humidity add up to less than 100. These areas are hard to find in most homes, particularly during the summer that we're experiencing.
However, there is a good place in your home for storing leftover seeds. It's the refrigerator. Seeds can be stored in either compartment as long as they're placed in airtight containers. The best are glass jars with tight-fitting lids. High quality freezer bags that are properly sealed after evacuating most of the air are good, too. Place the seed packets in the container chosen and place the sealed vessel in the refrigerator. Be sure to allow the container and its contents to warm to room temperature before removing the seed packets for your next planting.
If you're harvesting your own seeds for planting in the future, it's important to allow them to dry down thoroughly before putting them in cold storage. A quick and easy test is that seeds are properly dried will break instead of bending when folded.
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Fleas
While we normally consider late summer as being flea season, in reality the fleas have been with us throughout the spring and summer. By this time of year, however, their populations have increased to the point that they cannot be ignored or overlooked.
To say the least, flea control can be very frustrating and at times somewhat discouraging. In order to effectively eliminate a flea problem, a step-wise program is needed. Since most flea problems originate from an infested cat or dog, elimination of fleas from these infested pets is the first and most important step. Insecticides approved for direct application to pets as dips, dusts, sprays, or shampoos are widely available. In addition, most veterinarians will also provide flea control services for your pet.
Once the pet has been taken care of, efforts should then focus on the home. Particular attention should be paid to areas of the home where the pet sleeps or spends the majority of its time. Blankets or rugs that may be used as pet bedding should be disposed of or laundered in hot, soapy water. All carpets and upholstered furniture should be thoroughly vacuumed and the sweeper bag contents discarded.
If the flea infestation is light, frequent and thorough vacuuming may eventually eliminate the problem. Moderate to heavy infestations, however, will usually necessitate the application of an insecticide to carpets, baseboards, cracks and crevices, and other such areas. Products containing an insect growth regulator will prevent eggs from hatching and juveniles from maturing into adults. Be sure to purchase insecticides labelled for the control of fleas and follow the directions exactly.
Factsheet #2081 has more information on controlling fleas.
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Fruit Flies
A vegetable gardener's kitchen and pantry space are displaying many ripe or nearly ripe tomatoes at this time of year. It won't be long before fruit flies become a nuisance in the home. You'll find yourself being bothered by these tiny flies as you're eating or enjoying a cup of coffee or other beverage.
Fruit flies are tiny insects with red eyes. They feed and lay eggs on overripe fruits. Preserving your bounty and disposing of unusable fruits in the compost pile will quickly reduce their populations. Cleaning off the counter space and removing storage boxes will eliminate remaining food sources for the pests. Insecticides should not be required.
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Carpenter Ants
Carpenter ants are a nuisance by their presence when found in parts of the home such as the kitchen, bathroom, living room and other quarters. When 20 or more large winged and/or wingless ants are found indoors, in the day time near one location, it is possible that the colony is well established in the home and the nest may have been extended into sound wood, sometimes causing structural damage. Carpenter ants do not eat wood, but remove quantities of it to expand their nest size. However, if only one to two large wingless ants are erratically crawling, they may simply be foraging for food with the nest located outside. Outdoors, they are frequently seen running over plants and tree trunks or living in moist, partly rotten wood stumps.
Carpenter ants are among the largest ants found in homes and live in colonies containing three castes consisting of winged and wingless queens, winged males and different sized workers. Winged males are much smaller than winged queens. Wingless queens measure 5/8 inch, winged queens 3/4 inch to the tips of their folded brownish wings, small minor workers 1/4 inch and large major workers « inch. They have constricted waists and bent or elbowed antennas. Their forewings are larger than the hindwings, transparent or brownish and not easily removed. Adults are usually black.
Nests are usually established in soft, moist (not wet), decayed wood or occasionally in an existing wood cavity or void area in a structure that is perfectly dry.
The most important and often most difficult part of carpenter ant control is locating the nest or nests. Once the nest location is found, control is very easy and simple. Sometimes more than one colony is present in the structure or on its grounds, so a thorough inspection is very important.
See Factsheet HYG-2063-10 "Carpenter Ants".
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Top Ten Tips for Houseplants
Caring for houseplants begins with plant selection and continues with proper care that will ensure your plants' environmental needs are being met. These two broad strategies will prevent or control most pest and disease problems. If all else fails, you may need to discard a plant or else consider some stronger medicine. However, pesticides should be the last resort -they may eliminate the pest for the time being but do nothing to remedy the underlying environmental stresses that made the plant susceptible to the problem in the first place.
The following ten tips are offered to help keep your houseplants healthy:
1. Select plant species that are not prone to problems.
2. The most effective pest management strategy is prevention. Buy only pest-free plants.
3. Closely examine your new plants and keep them away from your other plant collections for two to three weeks to be sure not to contaminate them with problems.
4. Make sure that the pests aren't brought in from outside by you or anyone else who comes into contact with outdoor plants.
5. Always work around your houseplants with clean hands and clean equipment. Periodically change, clean or disinfect all your gardening tools.
6. When watering, avoid splashing water from plant to plant.
7. Isolate moderately and heavily infested plants. Keep the plants quarantined for one month after the last treatment and be sure to check the roots for problems.
8. Improve the vigor of plants by improving root health. You can do this by loosening compacted soil or repotting the plant. Increase the amount of light provided for the plant if you suspect this could be a problem.
9. Increase the humidity. Avoid hot, dry areas and lower the fertilizer rates.
10. If you use pesticides, read and follow the labels closely. If the name of your plant is not on the label, then it probably not a good idea to use that product on your plant. Often more than one application of a pesticide will be needed to control the problem.
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Goldenrod
Convincing some gardeners of the landscape value of goldenrods is difficult. These plants have long suffered from an undeserved reputation as a common field weed that causes hay fever. In fact, ragweed is the primary hay fever culprit. Goldenrod is falsely accused because it flowers abundantly during the peak allergy season. Goldenrods are easy to grow when planted in good garden soil in full sun. They are extremely hardy, drought tolerant, long-lived perennials. They also have few insect or disease problems and require minimal maintenance.
Not every goldenrod fits into all landscape situations. Successful use of these herbaceous perennials depends on careful plant selection. Several goldenrod species and hybrids are outstanding perennial garden plants. They are also excellent cut flowers, both fresh and dried. New cultivars and hybrids offer neat, compact growth, as well as a variety of flower forms.
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Growing a Lawn in the Shade
Although most lawns need sunlight to grow well, grass can be made in the shade when it's planted and tended correctly. And, late summer is an ideal time to re-seed lawns or start new ones.
The first step to growing grass in a shady site is to see if it can be made sunnier. That means pruning trees and shrubs to allow more sunlight and air to flow. Consider pruning if a site receives less than half the day's sunlight. For large trees, this can mean removing limbs to a height of at least 10 feet.
If pruning is not possible, then you'll need to sow grass seed that tolerates shady areas. Several types of tall fescue and fine fescue grow well in shade. The tall fescue is easier to find in stores and it stands up well against disease and insects. Some Kentucky bluegrass grow well in shade. All shade tolerant grasses will grow well in sunny areas.
Types of tall fescue to look for include Apache, Amigo, Olympic and Pacer. Fine fescue types are Enjoy, Spartan, Victory and Flyer. Kentucky bluegrasses with good shade tolerance are Glade, Asset, Classic and Bristol.
Once grass starts growing in the shade, proper care of it is critical. If grass in a shady site is dark green and thick, use the same fertilizer timings and rates as those for regular lawns. But, if the grass isn't growing well, reduce fertilizer rates by one-fourth. This corresponds to the grass's reduced nutrient needs. Putting more than the recommended rate will hurt, not help, the grass. If you're re-seeding an area this fall, be sure to fertilize it in late October to get it off to a good start.
Shaded grass should be watered as needed, but don't over water it. Because there's less sunlight and air movement, shady areas stay wet longer. This increases the threat of disease.
Mow shaded grass at the tallest recommended mowing height for the type of grass used.
And finally, remove fallen leaves carefully and quickly from newly seeded areas.
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Growing a Lawn in the Shade
Don't give your lawn split ends. Imagine letting a hair stylist cut your hair with a dull pair of scissors. Most likely you'd be wearing a hat for a few weeks. So why cut your lawn with dull mower blades? Since your lawn can't wear a cap, you should keep your mower blades sharp.
Dull mower blades don't cut your grass -- they rip off the clippings and shred the ends of the grass blades. These "wounded" grass blades are more susceptible to disease organisms and turn the tips of the grass a light brownish color. (You can easily tell the difference between this and dormant grass. With dormant grass, the entire blade is brown. Mower injured grass is brown and ragged just at the tips.)
For a high quality cut, especially on perennial ryegrass and tall fescue, the lawn mower blades' cutting edges must be properly sharpened. Even if the blades were sharpened at the beginning of the season, by now most of you have mowed your lawn at least 20 times -- and probably have clipped the sidewalk or unseen fallen branches a few times. Properly sharpened blades should have a straight cutting edge with no nicks or rounded areas on the outer half- to three-quarters-inch of the blade tip.
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Controlling Moss in the Lawn
Thick, green moss isn't likely to invade a healthy plant's living space. This timid plant grows in places where nothing else will grow, or if something is growing, it's doing poorly.
There are a lot of different kinds of mosses, from the low-growing velvety types to moss that grows a couple inches high. Homeowners can get rid of any kind of moss, but unless they correct the problems that allowed moss growth in the first place, it will continue to grow back.
1. Fix the underlying problems. Lawns prone to moss invasion will have at least one of the following: heavily shaded areas, wet areas with poor drainage, areas with poor air circulation, moderate to heavily compacted soil with low pH and thin, weak turf areas.
If there's too much shade, trim the trees to allow more light penetration. Trimming will increase air circulation, too. If moss grows where water accumulates, correct the drainage problems.
An iron sulfate/fertilizer combination product will burn off the moss and promote lawn growth, which discourages against subsequent moss infestations.
2. If you can't beat the problem, work with it. Some causes can't be corrected, such as a mossy lawn on an always-shady north side of the house, or the 50-year-old, next-to-impossible-to-trim trees that shade your yard. In these cases, rake out moss from the yard, then reseed the area with a turfgrass variety that's suitable for shade, such as a fine fescue.
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Moving Plants Indoors
Consider moving house plants indoors as night temperatures approach 50 F in late summer. Gradually reduce light levels by moving plants from sun to light shade, to heavy shade over a period of a week and then inside. Once inside, leaf yellowing and drop may occur as the plant re-adjusts to lower light conditions.
Plants should be carefully inspected for insect and mite pests before bringing them indoors. Control any pests found as indoor conditions may allow populations to increase rapidly.
Many gardeners choose not to summer plants outdoors because of the potential pest problems and the stress plants usually undergo once moved back indoors. If you have a plant that's growing well indoors, it's probably better to leave it indoors year round. If you have a plant that just barely makes it through the winter season indoors before being revived outdoors during the summer months, you have a poor choice for an indoor plant or you should consider a sunnier and more humid area of the home for its placement.
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Harvesting Melons
Judging ripeness in melons is one of the most difficult tasks for the new gardener, and can make a big difference between a tasty and refreshing snack and a flavorless disappointment.
Some experience is required to harvest a watermelon at its peak of perfection. As a watermelon ripens, the ground spot changes from pale green or white to cream or yellow. The tendrils near the fruit stem will dry and turn brown. The sound of a watermelon, when thumped with a finger, is a muffled, dull tone if it is ripe. An immature fruit will thump with a clear, metallic ringing tone.
For muskmelons , the slipping of the stem from the melon with slight finger pressure is an excellent indicator of melon ripeness. Those fruits that show a change of color from green or olive-grey to yellowish brown should be considered ready to harvest. For best quality, check the patch daily.
For more information, see Fact Sheets HYG- 5523-09 "Selecting, Serving and Storing Ohio Melons," 1626-95 "Growing Watermelon in the Home Garden" and 1615-93 "Growing Muskmelons in the Home Garden.".
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Ground Covers
Ground covers are low-growing plants that spread over an area. In the landscape, they often are used to solve a problem with erosion or maintenance of steep slopes. Where shade is too dense for growing grass, ground covers are an option. They are also recommended around trees when the tree's roots are at the surface and cause mowing problems.
Ground covers should not be thought of only as a solution for problem areas. They can be used to visually unify divergent components of a landscape. They are used to soften the edges of walks, steps and drives. As a foreground, a ground cover can be the unifying factor in a collection of plants.
A ground cover defines space. It gives a crisp, permanent definition to the form of a garden. It provides a transition between the lawn and taller plants. The aesthetic qualities of ground covers include attractive foliage, colorful flowers and bright fruits. Careful selection will add to the year-round beauty of your landscape.
See Extension Fact Sheet HYG-1648-01 "Herbaceous Ground Covers for the Home Landscape."
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Just the Facts about Bees
Most nests of the gnats, bees and wasps, and termites have only one-egg laying Queen. The members of her nest are her offspring, and most are workers who never breed.
To fill one honeycomb cell, a honeybee worker must visit up to 1,000 flowers. To do this, she may fly as many as 10 trips a day if it is sunny.
To make 2.2 pounds of honey, bees make up to 65,000 trips, visiting 45 to 64 million flowers.
Large colonies of bees have as many as 80,000 workers and consume almost 500 pounds of honey a year.
Workers live six to eight weeks, and queens can live as long as five years.
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Verticillium Wilt on Woody Plants
Verticillium wilt is a serious vascular disease of hundreds of woody and herbaceous plants. Some of the common woody ornamental plants that can become infected are ash, barberry, catalpa, elm, magnolia, maple, Russian olive, redbud, smoketree, tuliptree, and vibrunum.
Wilting of leaves and dieback of branches, often one at a time or on one side of the tree, are the most severe symptoms. This can occur over a number of years, with remission of symptoms in some years, or can rapidly progress to plant death in a year or two. Other symptoms of Verticillium wilt include marginal browning and scorch of leaves, abnormally large seed crops, small leaves, stunting, poor annual growth, and sparse foliage. Keep in mind that all of these symptoms can also be caused by other stress factors.
From root infections, the Verticillium fungus spreads upward in the plant through the vascular system. The results of infection are tissue damage and plugging of the conductive tissues, robbing stems and leaves of needed water and minerals. Development of Verticillium wilt is favored by factors that stress roots, including wounding and droughty conditions. If Verticillium wilt is suspected as the cause of a tree problem, the diagnosis should be confirmed by a diagnostic lab such as the Plant & Pest Diagnostic Clinic at OSU. Contact the Extesnion Office for information on submitting samples. There are no effective chemical controls for this disease. For more information see OSU Extension Factsheet HYG-3053-96 "Verticillium Wilt of Landscape Trees and Shrubs.".
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Lilies
Lilies are an easy-to-grow, colorful addition to your garden, flowering from mid-June through mid-September. These hardy bulbs require only minimal care and will grow into an attractive group of flowering stems.
Many plants that have lily as part of their name (such as daylily) are not true lilies. True lilies belong to the genus Lilium. They grow from bulbs made of fleshy, overlapping scales without a protective covering. True lilies have stiff stems with narrow strap-like leaves all along them. Flowers are large and showy, and may be bowl-shaped, trumpet-shaped, or bell-shaped with petals curled back. Lilies offer gardeners a great variety in flower form and color.
Asiatic and Oriental lilies are presently the most popular types of garden lilies. Asiatics are among the easiest to grow because they are very hardy and do not need to be staked. Their flowers are large and colorful. Oriental lilies have become increasingly popular and can be grown successfully if the soil is acidic and drains well. They are dramatically beautiful with fragrant, exotic flowers.
When choosing your lilies, you should also consider the color scheme of your garden and blooming season of the lilies. Visit a private or public garden to see lilies in bloom and help you decide which ones you like.
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Daisies
The Gloriosa Daisy or Black-eyed Susan is a member of one of the leading flower families in the garden, the Aster Family. This is the largest family of flowering plants in the world and includes 20,000 species in over 950 genera. The blooms in this family consist of many small flowers in a central disk surrounded by petal-like ray flowers. Dahlias, cosmos, dandelions, asters, and rudbeckias are all members of this group.
The gloriosa is a glowing yellow daisy that shows its charm this time of year in the perennnial border. Gloriosa daisies are amazingly resistant to drought, and can, in fact, be moved in full bloom with little complaint. In areas with dry summers or in the poorest of soils, these flowers will bloom the first year from seed. Many cultivars are available. Check out Becky Mix - compact plants with golden-yellow flowers with bronze centers; Irish Eyes - 30" plant with 5" golden flowers with green centers; Marmalade - shorter than other selections (22") with freely-produced golden-orange flowers; Sputnik - bright yellow flowers with very dark brown centers, an excellent choice for cut flowers.
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Dividing Irises
Bearded irises benefit from being divided about every 2 to 3 years. Dividing should be done one to two months after bloom, usually July or August. Bearded irises grow from an underground stem called a rhizome. Healthy rhizomes increase in size and develop branches or off-shoots which can be broken off (retaining the roots) and replanted. When dividing, cut back leaves to one-third their length to keep newly planted divisions from being whipped by the wind and pulled from the soil.
Cultivate the soil 12-18 inches deep and mix in composted organic material. Dig a hole about 6 inches deep and wide enough to accommodate the rhizome and its roots. Build a small mound of soil in the bottom and place the rhizome on it, spreading the roots carefully. Adjust the height of the mound so the rhizome is just beneath the soil surface. Fill in the hole and water. Space bearded irises about 12-18 inches apart.
The dividing process is a good time to check rhizomes for iris borer and bacterial soft rot. Iris borers are cream color with a dark brown head capsule. Any borers found can be removed and squashed or dropped into a pan of soapy water. For soft rot, scrape out the affected tissue, allow it to dry in the sun, then dip in a 10-12 percent solution of household bleach for a few minutes. Rinse with water and allow to dry before planting.
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Dahlias
Dahlias are native to Mexico and Central America. In 1519, when the Cortez expedition discovered the then 5 feet tall plants with blood-red flowers. Soon the flowers grew in Spanish monastery gardens. There developed intense rivalry and intrigue among European royalty for these exotic flowers. Dahlia seeds and tubers were frequently stolen and spirited from one imperial garden to another.
Meanwhile seeds were sent to Anders Dahl, a Swedish botanist, who began selective breeding and started a whole new line of plants. In 1789, the King of Spain hosted a celebration of the flower's history and renamed in dahlia in honor of Dr. Dahl.
There is a great variety of form and color in dahlia flowers, from showy dinner-plate size to bright little single blooms in shades of white, yellow, red, lilac, maroon, and dark purple. Being of tropical origin, dahlias require some special care, especially lifting of the tubers for winter storage. However, with minimum care dahlia blooms will grace your garden from July until frost. For more information, request OSU Extension Factsheet HYG-1245-92 "Growing Dahlias" by Jack Kerrigan.
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Bird's Nest Spruce
The majestic Norway spruce may not be a good choice to plant in front of your home, unless your home is also majestic. However, the Bird's Nest Spruce, may be worth considering as a landscape addition for a more modest abode. Bird's Nest spruce is low-growing, spreading and densely branched. There is usually a depression in the center of the plant giving rise to the catchy name. Like it's large counterpart, the Bird's Nest spruce is easily transplanted balled and burlapped, and is readily moved because of its shallow spreading root system. Usually growing not more than about 4 feet in height, Bird's Nest spruce makes an attractive specimen plant and a welcomed alternative to other overused evergreen shrubs.
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Wasps
Social wasps, including paper wasps , yellowjackets and hornets, have selected their summer-long nesting sites by now and are busily enlarging nests and raising offspring to increase colony size. Left unchecked, these social wasps will produce colonies of up to several hundred individuals by the end of the summer. Solitary wasps, such as cicada killers and mud daubers, work alone, as their name implies, and their nests are much smaller.
When wasp nests are in high traffic areas, such as along walks or near doorways, control is justified to reduce the threat of being stung. Above ground nests on trees and houses can be treated with "wasp and hornet" aerosol sprays that shoot the insecticide several feet. Nests in walls or in the ground are better treated with an insecticide dust of Sevin or rotenone. Treat the nests at night and do not plug nest openings until all activity has stopped.
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